Cycling the Northern Carretera Austral: A Short Guide for an Adventurous Journey
Cycling the Northern Carretera Austral: A Short Guide for an Adventurous Journey
Discover the essentials of cycling the Carretera Austral, including what to bring, what to reserve, and the breathtaking sights you might encounter along the way.
Cycling. Voyage. Outdoor. Chile. Andes. Learn. Success. Failure. Connect. Disconnect.
I will never forget my first bikepacking trip in Latvia, because it was a first yes – but also cold. Waking up at the campground in my small tent taking a glimpse of the outside world – snow. I did think I was prepared since I brought gloves with me, but not really the right gloves. Within minutes the gloves were soaked in water and the hands even colder than before. Only warm water could help now, and it did. The moral of the story is that you might be prepared but you will always learn for your next adventure. And for Patagonia this probably applies like in no other region of the world. Further down the road on my trip to the North Cape I met a bikepacker that always brings two or three pairs of gloves, just so he has a dry pair. Probably a bit exaggerated but definitely a warm option for colder days.
Many many cycling kilometres later I embarked on my second trip down the Carretera Austral – starting in Puerto Varas. The weather forecast was good for these days – but cold. "Normal People" do not cycle down to Patagonia in May, but you should go when you can go right? Cycling out of Puerto Varas with a good headwind and a tiny bit of headwind I arrived at the first ferry in Caleta Arena to Caleta Puelche. This Ferry doesn't require a reservation, and it takes around 20minutes to cross the Reloncavi Fjord.
- Ferry Caleta Arena to Caleta Puelche
- Cost: 3030 CLP bike included
- Leaves every 30 minutes
- No reservation required
- Info: here (Spanish)
A Ferry crossing is always something special, look out for Birds, Dolphins or maybe a Humboldt Penguin if you are very lucky. After arriving in Caleta Puelche the first ups and downs start, and you will not encounter a lot of traffic after the cars have taken off. You can stay at a campground near the ocean or continue to Hornopiren to take the next ferry.
- Recommended: Camping y Glamping Mañihueico
Hornopiren is a nice little village where you might want to stop for a day and go for a hike. Otherwise, it is time for the next ferry. During high season this ferry gets booked out pretty fast, so it is important to book ahead of time. The journey consists of two ferry rides that are connected – so once you book you book for both. In-between there is a short road on land that you can either cycle or take the bus/pickup truck.
After arriving in Caleta Gonzalo you will cycle through the Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park with beautiful lakes and endless forest. There is also a camping right after you get off the ferry! Otherwise continue to Lago Blanco or Lago Negro to set up your tent (climbing on a gravel road). In Chaiten you can fill up your bags with food and enjoy a coffee with a dulce (something sweet).
- Recommended: Café Buen Sabor – Chaiten (closed on Sunday)
Continue south towards Puerto Cardenas where you will encounter the beautiful Lago Yelcho. Only 50km from Chaiten this is the perfect spot for a night at the lake!
- Recommended: Yelcho en la Patagonia Hotel & Camping
After Lago Yelcho it is time for yet another climb – the cuesta Moraga. But every climb comes with a view and after every climb there is a descent, so something to look forward to. Your next stop is in Villa Santa Lucia where we recommend to visit "donde la betty" – here you can enjoy homemade food and very friendly owners.
- Recommended: Donde la Betty - Villa Santa Lucia
Continue south and enjoy the beautiful scenery. In La Junta you will find several bed and breakfasts as well as a Campground.
- Hidden gem: Before reaching la junta turn left and explore the Valle Mirta
After many kilometres inland you will arrive in Puyuhuapi and you will be back at the Pacific Ocean. Drink a Coffee or go for lunch to get ready for the famous "Cuesta Queulat" – a legendary gravel road with many switchbacks! Make sure to stop at the waterfall "Padre Garcia" which is just a few meters off the road. From here it's all downhill, well pretty much! After the descent you will cycle through a beautiful canyon with many opportunities to take pictures.
Continue south and after another short but intense climb you will reach Villa Amengual. Stay at the Refugio para ciclistas or for more comfort book a room at "El Michay". But most importantly drink a coffee at Aroma Austral Café, speciality coffee in the middle of Patagonia.
- Recommended: Aroma Austral Café – Villa Amengual
After your morning coffee it is time to head out and visit Laguna Las Torres. The scenery is changing again, and you will be cycling through a plain in the middle of the mountains. The next stop for food is Villa Mañihuales.
You can now either continue on the paved road heading west to reach Coyhaique (x-50) or take the more adventurous Ruta 7 that is heading southwest. Either way you will be reaching Coyhaique soon and you will have the Northern Carretera Austral successfully completed! Coyhaique is also the last big town, if you are heading south afterwards. So fill your bags with food! ;)
A few recommendations for Coyhaique:
- Beer: La Esquina Tropera
- Coffee and Breakfast: Distrito Bakery
- Lunch or Dinner: Basilic Bistrot
- Sports Bar: Restaurante Bajo Marquesina
So hopefully you learned something reading this guide and if not you may learn it on the road! Safe gravel travel!
